Enter “ICE” (In Case of Emergency) contact information in your cell phone

“ICE” is an international designation emergency responders look for on cell phones to find emergency contact information if an injured person is unable to speak.
   Enter emergency info for both you (ICE) and your horse (ICE HORSE) in your cell phone.
   Enter the word ICE then list the name and phone number oof the person to call in case you are found injured. If you want to have more than one emergency contact use successive entries such as “ICE 2,” “ICE 3.”
   Using the entry “ICE HORSE,” “ICE HORSE 2” etc., do the same with the name and phone number of your vet along with the person to be contacted to make decisions about your horse(s).

Vet Approved Emergency First Aid Kit

The following items assembled into an emergency kit will help you handle most situations. Discuss this list with your own veterinarian, he/she may have other suggestions that are appropriate for you and your situation:
•ROLL COTTON - 2 rolls
•ROLL GAUZE - 4 rolls
•GAUZE SQUARES
•CLEAN STANDING BANDAGES – 2 quilt or fleece with outer wraps
•ADHESIVE TAPE
•24" SECTION OF 6' PVC PIPE - which has been split in half lengthwise - for splinting:
  check that diameter of pipe fits your horse.
•COHESIVE FLIXIBLE BANDAGE - 2 Vetratp® – Co-flex®
•STICKY ROLL BANDAGE - Elastikon®
•THERMOMETER
•STETHOSCOPE
•MOSQUITO FORCEPS
•SCISSORS
•TWITCH
•ANTISEPTIC SOAP - Betadine®
•HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
•ANTIBACTERIAL OINTMENT
•ANTIBACTERIAL SPRAY POWDER
•OPHTHALMIC OINTMENT
•SALINE EYE WASH
•BUTAZOLIDIN PASTE
•BANAMINE GRANULES OR PASTE
•BUCKET
•WATER 10 gallons or more

All medications should be given at the advice of your veterinarian or the veterinarian treating the condition. IMPROPER USE OF TRANQUILIZERS AND OTHER MEDICATIONS CAN RESULT IN THE LOSS OF YOUR HORSE.

Source: Neva Kittrell Scheve & Dr. James Hamilton, DM
http://www.usrider.org/firstaid.html

Horse/Human First Aid Kits
from montanamountainhorse.com

Horsin’ Around Outdoors
   We've had some folks ask if we carry a horse first aid kit for trail riding, horse camping or horse packing.  We do not have a 1st aid kit on the website for horse or humans, but we do think it is a good idea to be prepared!  It just seems like it is a little easier to get what you want and need if you prepare your own kit.  And, it's really not that expensive.
   So, in the manner of the CASE method (copy and steal everything)--we've checked out some of the horse first aid kits that are out there...and some of the recommendations from other folks and come up with some ideas we'd like to pass along to you!
   Kits will vary according to personal preference, but there are certain supplies which should be incorporated into every kit.  This kit would contain primarily emergency items that could help in the event of a cut or wound.

Recommended items for your portable first aid kit:
*Flashlight
*Electrolytes, powder and paste for dehydration.
*Neosporin - This should be applied twice daily to minor abrasions and in wounds that are superficial wounds (the skin edges cannot be moved separately).
*Diluted iodine solution - To flush out any full thickness wounds (the skin edges can be moved separately). Any wound that will be seen by a veterinarian within 4 hours of injury (8 hours for head injuries) should not have any other medications applied, but should simply be flushed with clear water or dilute iodine solution and covered to prevent drying.
*Nolvasan, Furacin, Corona,  or Wound Powder - These antiseptic ointments or powders are to be applied to full thickness wounds (the skin edges can be moved separately) that will not be seen by a veterinarian within the first 4 to 8 hours. 
*Knife for making splints, cutting bandaging materials, cutting your horse free from a tangled rope, etc. Use extreme care when using a knife around your horse. 
*Hoof pick To clean out the bottom of the foot, search for punctures, bruising, or other foot problems.
*Fly lotion, Swat, etc - Used to keep flies and other insects from irritating and contaminating open wounds that cannot be bandaged. Apply the lotion directly around but not inside the wound.
*Ophthalmic Polysporin - For eye injuries.
*Bandaging Materials: Cotton Padding, Telfas (non-stick gauze) Vetrap
*Duct Tape, Diapers, Large & Small Sterile Gauze or Vetrap
*Elastoplast, 1-inch and 2 inch White Adhesive Tape, Saran Wrap, Cotton Leg Wraps
*6-inch brown roll gauze, Med-Rip bandage tape

Additional items:
*Latex gloves
*Antibiotic spray
*Safety pins
*Zip Lock Bags
*Petroleum Jelly
*Blunt-nosed scissors

For the human:
  • personal medication
  • bandages    •        
  • aspirin, Tylenol    •        
  • medical tape    •        
  • sterile gauze    •        
  • elastic wrap    •        
  • antibiotic wipes    •        
  • antiseptic cream    •        
  • burn ointment    •        
  • sunburn lotion    •        
  • hydrogen peroxide    •        
  • scissors    •        
  • tweezers    •        
  • eye wash    •        
  • sanitary napkins    •        
  • snake bite kit    •        

Trail Safety
from The New York State Department of Environmental Conservation

• Do not ride alone. Have at least two adults in party.
• Always let someone know exactly where you plan to travel & when you expect to get back.
• Then carry out that schedule.
• Carry first aid supplies for rider and mount.
• Carry a supply of rawhide lacing for emergency repairs to reins, girth, etc.
• Halter should be worn under the bridle to tether horse.
• Carry fly spray and fly dope (during fly time) for horse and rider.
• Take along an extra horseshoe and nails, hatchet, jackknife with leather pouch.
• Carry a 20' coil of 1/2" rope.

NYS DEC Trail Rules and Regulations

Subdivision (n) of Section 190.8 of Title 6 of the official compilation of Codes, Rules and Regulations of the State of New York provides for use of state owned lands by horses and equestrians as follows:

The riding, driving or leading of horses will be permitted anywhere on state lands under the jurisdiction of the Department of Environmental Conservation unless otherwise prohibited by law, regulation, posted notice or this subdivision. No person shall ride or permit a horse on:
     -land devoted to intensively developed facilities, such as boat launch sites, day use areas, campgrounds*, ski centers education centers, fish hatcheries, game farms or headquarter complexes, and lands managed for public safety, such as flood control levees;
     -foot trails, except where such trails are part of a publicly maintained road, or are specifically designated to allow travel by horses thereon; and
     -designated snowmobile trails and cross-country ski trails that are covered with ice or snow.
*Does not include camping areas specifically developed for horse use. 

Department Policy

The following policies concerning the administration and use of marked horse trails is set forth for your information and guidance. Your cooperation in regard to these simple rules will be appreciated.
     The Department of Environmental Conservation may close any area to public use whenever it deems necessary. Further, the department may refuse entry to any grouyp or individual who for any reason is not properly equipped for wilderness travel.
     Individuals or groups entering an area with a registration booth must register at the booth upon arrival and check out upon departure.
     Areas will be used on a first-come-first -served basis. Lean-tos, horse shelters and corral areas must be shared to their capacity.
     Groups, clubs and organizations wishing to conduct organized rides or events must apply for a permit with the appropriate regional forester's office.
     All groups of 10 or more must obtain a permit prior to camping.
     Campsites shall not be set up within 150 feet of water, rails or roads unless specifically designated by the Department.
     Current Coggins test required for use of facilities. Sick or injured horsed must be removed from state lands upon request by Department personnel. All users of state horse trails must comply with New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets Rules and Regulations.

Trail Rider Etiquette    
from The New York State Department of Environmental Conservation

Respect the rules and regulations which apply to the use of public lands and always seek permission before crossing private lands.

• Don't litter! If you carry it in carry it out!
• Keep camping, parking and corral areas clean. Leave them as you would like to find them.
• Park trailers and vehicle in spaces provided. Do not block roadways and trail entrances.
• Stay on designated trails. Do not cause unnecessary damage by trampling trailside vegetation.
• Respect other trail users. Dismount and lead your horse when greeting hikers or entering someone else's camp. Do not force hikers off the the trail!
• Do not tether horses to live trees.
• Do not smoke on the trail smoke only at rest stops or in camp.
• Drown any campfires, then stir and drown again.

Equestrian Trail Manuals Released (June 5, 2008)

Two publications concerning the design, construction and maintenance of equestrian trails, trailheads and campgrounds are now available.

The Equestrian Design Guidebook for Trails, Trailheads, and Campgrounds, written by Jan Hancock in conjunction with U.S. Forest Service, has been released by the Federal Highway Administration (FHWA). This manual provides trail design and construction details, while explaining the particular physical and psychological needs of equines and their riders that necessitate them.  The information in this guidebook is applicable to trails at all levels of development and locations.

Recreational Horse Trails in Rural and Wildland Areas: Design, Construction, and Maintenance, was written by Gene W. Wood, in conjunction with 16 contributing authors. This guidebook concentrates specifically on horse trail development in rural and wild land areas. An emphasis is placed on trial design, construction and placement that will make long term use by equestrians possible. The American Horse Council was involved in facilitating the funding of this book.

Equestrian accessible trails are of the utmost importance to the horse community.  Both of these books are needed and will be of great help to recreational riders throughout the country.

Equestrian Design Guidebook for Trails, Trailheads, and Campgrounds is offered free of charge online at the FHWA website http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/fspubs/07232816/index.htm or a hard copy can be ordered through the FHWA Report Center: Recreational Trails Program Reports Order Form.

Recreational Horse Trails in Rural and Wildland Areas: Design, Construction, and Maintenance, is available for a fee from Clemson University's Forestry and Natural Resources website at www.clemson.edu/forestres/.

Safety During Hunting Season   from thehorse.com by: Heather Smith Thomas, 9/13/07, Article #10396

Horse owners often worry about safety of their animals during hunting seasons, especially if the horse's color might be mistaken for a deer or other large game animal. Fortunately, there are some simple steps you can take to help distinguish your horse as a domesticated animal, rather than a potential target.

In Pasture
   Fenced pastures are generally off limits to hunters without landowner permission, but it still helps to put signs along the fence stating it's private property. Check the hunting laws in your state--some state regulations require signage on the property to show no hunting is allowed. Painting every few posts fluorescent orange can also help to alert hunters.
   If you feel your horses might still be at risk, take steps to protect them. If they are turned out only part time, avoid putting them out during times of poor visibility, such as dawn or dusk, or during foggy weather. If you have options, keep them in pens or pastures close to your house and barnyard during hunting seasons, rather than in an outlying field.
   To make sure horses are easily identifiable as domestic animals, bright colored cloth or ribbon can be braided into manes and tails. If your horse wears a halter, make sure it's a bright color. Hunter-safe horse clothing is also available. Protectavest, a Windham, Maine-based company that touts "If it can be shot at, we'll cover it in blaze orange," makes bright orange pasture "vests" for horses. The vests are basically the front half of a horse blanket. They also offer orange tail bags made of the same material. An orange horse collar that goes around the neck and fits under the throatlatch is safe for a horse at pasture, as the hook-and-loop closure tears loose if the collar becomes caught on something.

While Riding
   If you have a choice, avoid riding on public land during hunting season, especially in wooded or brushy areas.
   The more bright color on your horse, the better. Some riders put a red or orange blanket over their regular saddle pad. Protectavest offers trail sheets to fit over the pad and under the saddle, covering the entire hind end of the horse like a quarter sheet. The company also makes orange dog vests, since many riders take their dogs along on rides.
   When riding, always wear brightly colored clothing, such as bright blue, red, or orange--something that would never be mistaken for a wild animal. Avoid tans, browns, white, or light colors. A blaze-orange vest to put over your shirt or coat can be purchased at any sporting goods outlet. A bright orange helmet cover can also be used.
   Another tip when riding through wooded or brushy country where visibility is poor: make sure a hunter can hear you even if he can't quite see what you are. Some riders tie small bells to their breast collar or other areas of tack so there is constant jingling as the horse moves. Singing and talking are good, but the bells give a constant signal that you and your horse are not a game animal.
   By taking a few simple steps, you can make your horse's identity clear and reduce the risk of an accident.

Trail Riding at Night   reprinted from EquiSearch.com     by Patti Bailey

Riding down a meandering trail in the moonlight with good friends is a magical adventure. But safe night riding does require added preparation. To help you get ready, I'll give you tips on how to best light your way. (Note: You'll also need trail-riding essentials, such as a first-aid kit, a multipurpose tool, an EasyBoot, water, and snacks.) Then I'll give you some at-home exercises to prepare your horse--and yourself--for a night ride. Finally, I'll give you some valuable on-the-trail night-riding safety tips.

Horses see very well at night, and purists like me prefer to ride without any "false light." However, if you need additional light on a dark trail, glow sticks (available from outdoor-supply stores) are an excellent choice. They're tubes that, when activated, emit a dusklike luminescence that lights the trail without destroying your or your horse's night vision (when your and your horse's pupils naturally dilate to let in the greatest amount of light possible). Use duct tape to secure two or three sticks to your horse's breastcollar, and snap their tops to activate them when the sun goes down. They'll last 8 to 10 hours. (But take a couple of extras in your saddlebag, just in case.)

Also pack a handheld flashlight (also available from outdoor-supply stores) that fits into your saddlebag--but use it only when absolutely necessary (such as emergency tack repair or to check out a suspicious noise). Its bright light will ruin the night vision both you and your horse need. Warn your companions before you turn it on. (Never wear a headlamp; its light flashes everywhere you look, and your horse's eyes will follow it, not the trail.)

Other night riders might use flashlights or even headlamps more frequently, so it's best to get your horse used to the beam before you go. Here's how:

• At dusk, tack up your horse. At this time of day, the flashlight won't seem as bright. Hand-walk him to a small, enclosed area, such as a round pen for better control.

• With your reins in one hand and a flashlight in the other, stand at your horse's front legs, facing him. Talk to him in soothing, reassuring tones. Point the flashlight at his hooves and turn it on. Run the beam over his hooves, then slowly up his legs, as though you were giving him a bath for the first time. Act blasé, so you don't transmit any nervousness to him.

• "Bathe" the rest of your horse's body with light, until he's completely desensitized.

• Turn off the flashlight, mount up, and sit quietly. Point the flashlight straight down, and turn it on. Slowly move the beam around until it ceases to distract your horse. Then pick up a jog, and continue to move the beam. Then try it at a lope, gradually moving the beam more quickly. Your goal is to teach your horse to ignore an erratic light beam-even at a lope.

• When your horse is comfortable with the flashlight at dusk, repeat the drill in darkness, so he'll get used to a brighter light.

Now, here are some on-the-trail night-riding tips:

• Choose a trail that suits your ability and confidence level. For your first rides, travel a wide trail, so if your horse spooks, you'll have plenty of room for correction. (As you become more experienced, you can gradually move on to more difficult trails.)

• Ride the trail in the daylight first. Once your horse knows a trail in light, you can trust him to carry you over it in darkness.

• Go when the moon is full and bright for the best night vision possible.

• Ride with a buddy, and file a "flight plan" with someone before you leave. Then enjoy the moonlight!

Happy Camper
Tips for making overnight trips with your horse easy, fun, and safe using a portable pen.
By Sandra Cooke

Question:   What's inexpensive, easy to assemble, and and a doorway to a whole new world of enjoyment with your horse?
Answer:    A lightweight, portable pen or corral, designed to stow on or in your trailer and to set up with a minimum of fuss at a campground or trailhead. Put one up and you can snug down peacefully in your sleeping bag, knowing your horse has a secure place for the night where he can stretch his legs, watch the scenery as he munches his hay, and lie down to rest.

A portable electric-tape corral. (c) Mandy Lorraine
These enclosures come in two basic types: electric pens and portable panels. Each has advantages and drawbacks, and each works best when you train your horse to accept his pen as his home away from home before you hit the road, then make his first camping trip (and yours!) as stress-free as possible.

Here's how to get started

Electric Fence
What you need:
   1 Posts: Can be fiberglass (lightest and lest expensive, but may become splintery with exposure to sunlight), polyprolylene "step-in" (metal tip at base, designed to push into ground with your foot), or metal rods (can be pounded in with a hammer). Fiberglass and metal both require insulators to hold tape or wire; step-in posts are self-insulating.
   2 Electric tape or wire: Polyethylene tape with imbedded conductive metal strands comes 1 to 2 inches wide, in white and colors?highly visible. Wider tape makes a more substantial fence, but it's more expensive, and the 2-inch width doesn't fit through all insulators. Poly-coated wire is less expensive but breaks more easily; for visibility, flagging is a must.
   3 "Fencer" or electric charger: battery- or solar-powered (solar is bulkier).
   4 Gate handle: Insulated handle with metal spring core, hook at one end, and loop at the other for connecting tape or wire, creates a gate at any point in the pen perimeter.

Pluses:    •        
• Flexibility. Complete electric-fencing kits are available, but many campers buy components separately from farm or garden warehouse stores, hardware stores, and catalogues?and occasionally luck out with bargain prices on individual pieces such as the charger. Size and shape of the pen modifies readily to fit available space.    •        
• Affordability. Less than $150 buys everything you need; complete kits go for less than $200.    •        
• Easy storage and handling. One person can easily set up and take down. Tape or wire rolls up for storage. Posts (insulators still attached) bundle together with shock cord, or even slide into boxes designed for golf clubs. Then it all goes in your trailer's tack room or the back of your tow vehicle.

Minuses:    •        
• Easily demolished. A horse panicked by accidental contact with his own pen, or by a disturbance nearby, can forget his reluctance to touch the fence and bolt right through the wire or tape. Or another camper's panicked loose horse can run through your horse's pen.    •        
• It only works with the charger on. Many horses can tell when the fence is electrified and are quick to lean over it for grass when it's not (one reason a spare battery is recommended).    •        
• Less effective if you're blanketing. A blanket insulates your horse against electricty (though the lower tape or wire may contact his legs if he leans on the fence.

Portable Panels
What you need:
   1 Panels: Ready-made panels are available in several weights and styles (both steel and aluminum); one popular type, about 6 feet long by 4 feet high, comes in sets of eight. Or have a local welding shop build panels to your needs.
   2 Fasteners: for attaching panel ends together securely enough that a horse can't separate two panels by sticking his neck through the bars and lifting.

Pluses:    •        
• No posts--an advantage in hard or rocky ground.    •        
• More likely to keep a spooked horse in, a stampeding horse out. A spooked horse may knock his panel pen out of kilter with kicks or body swipes, but he probably won't demolish it. Runaways are more likely to notice and respect the solid appearance of panels?and not crash through them.    •        
• Stows neatly. Brackets on your trailer exterior can hang panels out of the way. (Exception: 8-foot-wide trailers must carry panels inside.)    •        
• Durable--Panels are low-maintenance and last for years.    •        
• Expandable. Many panel pens are about 12 feet square; depending on available space (and number of panels you have), you can add panels to make a larger pen.

Minuses:
• More difficult to handle. If you're a small person, finding panels light enough for you to move around comfortably yet sturdy enough that your horse respects them can be a challenge. (...some campers who use lighter-weight panels add a single strand of electric tape around the top.)      
• More expensive than electric. Prices vary; a set of four welded-to-order 13-foot galvanized steel panels cost one of our camper experts $250

Introducing the Idea
Camping is new for your horse, so introduce it a step at a time. (And before you even start, consider: Laid-back, people-oriented horses make the best campers. If your guy's a high-anxiety, reactive type who frets about every change and hates leaving home and his regular buddies for any reason, camping may not be a good career move for him.)          
• If you plan to use an electric pen, does your horse know about electric fencing?
If not, set up your first at-home practice pen inside a paddock or riding ring for extra security, and make it extra large (about 20 feet square). That way, the first time he touches the fence, he'll have room to react without inadvertently backing into the other side. Use 3- to 4-foot posts and at least two courses of tape or wire (three is even better) so he feels securely enclosed. Even if you use wide electric tape, flag the fence generously -- you want him to see it, be curious about it, and touch it on his own. (You don't want to lead him to the fence and persuade him to touch it -- because he might think that your actions, not his, caused the zap.) Make sure the charger is on; then lead him inside the pen to the center, unsnap the lead shank, and leave him there as you exit and close the gate behind you -- but stay well within sight and sound to give him confidence. He'll probably approach, touch the fence with his nose, and jump back from the sensation. Most horses think things over, touch the fence a second time, and respect it thereafter. If yours seems to accept the fence quietly after a few minutes, go back into the pen, give him a treat, and lead him out. Repeat this several times over a couple of weeks to make sure he remembers and respects the fence.           
• Is your horse accustomed to confinement in a small area?
Many portable pens are only 12 to 16 feet square, both because space available for campers may be limited and because smaller pens are safer (see "More Tips" below). If your horse lives out in a field with a run-in shed?and especially if he's part of a herd?teach him to spend time on his own in a small space. Set up your panels or electric pen just outside his field, where he can see his buddies and even touch noses with them over the fence. Put his water, grain, and hay in the pen, and keep an eye on him to make sure he's not getting upset. Begin by leaving him there an hour or so; increase the time as he gets used to it. (If he spends part of each day in a box stall, he may find the confines of a portable pen more familiar.)        
• Fake overnight camping at home
or at the barn where you keep your horse. Try to enlist an equine camping buddy for company, or locate your "campsite" near a paddock where other horses are turned out at night. Set up your horse's pen near your trailer, make him comfortable, retire to your tent or camper -- and spy on him regularly during the night. (If you've arranged for a buddy, put their pens close together.) If he cleans up his hay and (better yet) lies down to sleep, he's got the idea.           
• Connect with an experienced camper for your early trips.
Not only will you learn the details of fun and safety from another horse person who's "been there/done that," but your horse will pick up on the attitude of a veteran equine camper.

More Happy Camping Tips
• For electric pens, space posts no more than 6 feet apart to keep tape or wire from sagging. (Space posts even closer on either side of gate opening.)Use tall posts (3 feet or more) with tape or wire strung near the top to discourage leaning. A second, lower course of tape or wire provides extra security.
• Although many horses camp happily in a 12-foot-square pen, make electric pens more generous (14 by 16 feet or so) whenever possible?to lessen the chances of an accidental "zap" when your horse rolls or lies down. (Don't go bigger than that, though. If your horse gets excited, too much space gives him the opportunity to build up dangerous momentum.)
• Bring plenty of hay. Even at grassy sites, grazing inside a pen disappears quickly, tempting your horse to lean over the fence.
• When setting up a panelpen, leave your horse inside the trailer so the sight and sound won't rattle him.
• Avoid using your trailer as one side of the pen. Your horse can injure himself rubbing on or bumping into an unprotected edge of metal (and if that edge is therer, he'll find it!).
• If you're with a large group, set up your horse's pen where he can see as many of his fellow campers as possible. He'll feel more secure than he will if he can hear but not see them.

Updated from the June 2000 Practical Horseman magazine. For help in the preparation of this article, the editors thank the following competitive trail and endurance riders: Lori Stewart, Eric Thompson, Louise Bower, Gail Dillon, Hallie McFadden, Cathy Lochary, and Heidi Andersen.

PREPARE YOUR HORSE TRAILER FOR TRAVEL SEASON    2-2008

Before the start of the summer travel season, it is critically important for horse owners to perform basic yet essential maintenance on their trailers. This will be time well spent because it will ensure that their trailers will be in optimal shape to provide safe passage for precious cargo during the upcoming season.

"A good roadside assistance program is something all horse owners should have but hope they will never have to use," said Mark Cole, managing member for USRider, a national provider of roadside emergency assistance for horse owners. "To that end, our mission is to continually educate horse owners about trailering safety."

To provide a reliable and accessible source of information about trailering safety, USRider maintains an Equine Trailer Safety Area on its Web site. 

"We have carefully developed this area to be a resource with helpful and practical topics--all free and available to members and non-members alike," added Cole. "Our Web site is designed so visitors can print out information as a handy reference. We also post safety bulletins as new information develops."

Some of available resources include a list of items every horse trailer should have on board, short trip and long trip precautions, and trailer inspection procedures.

Here are some tips to prepare your trailer for the upcoming travel season:
    * Remove and inspect all wheels and hubs or brake drums.
    * Inspect suspension for wear.
    * Check tightness of hanger bolt, shackle bolt, and U-bolt nuts per recommended torque values.
    * Check brake linings, brake drums, and armature faces for excessive wear or scoring.
    * Check brake magnets with an ohmmeter.
The magnets should check 3.2 ohms. If shorted or worn excessively, replace.
    * Lubricate all brake moving parts, using a high temperature brake lubricant.
    * Remove any rust from braking surface and armature surface of drums.
    * Inspect oil or grease seals for wear or nicks. Replace if necessary.
    * Inspect and grease wheel bearings.

In addition to these recommendations, horse owners are advised to check all trailer tires, (including spares) for signs of dry rot, correct air pressure, faulty air valves, uneven tire wear, overall tire wear, and damage. Use a high-quality air pressure gauge to inspect tire pressure before each trip. Always replace tires if worn or damaged. In addition, tires should be replaced every three to five years regardless of mileage. When replacing tires, always replace the valve stems. USRider recommended that only high quality tires specifically designed and rated for trailers be used--never use retread or automobile tires on a horse trailer.

It is also important to service the wheel bearings every 12,000 miles or annually (regardless of mileage) due to moisture build-up. Keep a spare set of wheel bearings in your trailer in case of premature failure. Be sure to inspect trailer wiring and lighting; inspect door latches and grease the doors; inspect the floor (be sure to remove any rubber mats so the entire floor can be examined); and inspect and lubricate mechanical moving parts, such as the hitch and suspension parts. If the trailer has been sitting for a while, check for wasp nests, spider webs, and any other creatures that might have taken up residence.

Cole also reminded equestrians to check the contents of their equine and human first aid kits.

Those hauling horses are also encouraged to program emergency contact information into their cell phones under the listing designation "ICE," which stands for In Case of Emergency. This can aid emergency workers in identifying victims and determining who needs to be notified in case of an accident.

Horse owners should also ensure that their emergency contact information is stored in their tow vehicle. To facilitate this, USRider has developed an In Case of Emergency form and posted it online for horse owners to print out. Simply fill in the blanks and store copies in the tow vehicle as well as in the trailer. Additional recommendations, including a Power of Attorney form, are posted on the USRider Web site.

For additional safety tips, visit the Equine Travel Safety Area on the USRider Web site

Trail-Riding Essentials   reprinted from EquiSearch.com        by Sandra Cooke

There's nothing like having what you need when you need it to help you feel competent and in control. When you and your horse are ready to leave home and go out on the trail, you can prepare for the changing environment and its challenges with additional clothing and equipment that's simple and affordable.

To help you plan ahead, our experts--trainer and trail clinician Bruce Lachiusa and Tevis Cup-winning endurance rider Lori Stewart-- tell you what, depending on where they're going, when, and for how long, they take along on the trail.

For You

 * Extra layers of clothing. Include a lightweight wind-and water-resistant pullover, for changes in weather.

 * Bandanna. "A bandanna is over my ears in cold weather, around my neck in hot weather. It's an emergency compress, or a hanky. It repairs equipment, or ties stuff to my saddle," says Lori.

 * Gloves. Use to keep your hands warm, protect your hands when handling rocks, branches, brush, and wire.

 * Fanny pack. Find one that fits close to your body without bouncing. Inside it, stash the items you want to stay with you if you and your horse part company, including:
--Cell phone, to call for help, or to phone home.
--Pocket knife or multipurpose tool.
--Whistle, more audible than a yell for getting help.
--Flashlight, for dealing with emergencies in the dark, finding your way, and helping others to find you.
--Large plastic trash bag (fold small and secure with a rubber band)
   for emergency poncho, ground cloth, or tablecloth.
--Purse-size pack of facial tissues.
--Juice box or other packaged drink.
--Durable concentrated energy food, such as a PowerBar or Clif Bar (in outdoor and health-food stores)
   or Payday candy bar. "Avoid things that melt or crumble," says Lori.
--Sample-size bottle of sunblock.
--Lip balm with UV protection.
--Small tube of petroleum jelly or Desitin to treat minor abrasions or chafing.
--Topographical map (stationery or outdoor store) or good road map of the area where you plan to ride.
   Get your horse used to your unfolding it at home, on the ground, and then (cautiously) on horseback.

 * Water bottle(s). These are valuable for long rides. Trail and some tack stores have these in no-bounce holders that fasten to the saddle in front or behind you (either works, says Lori)--or choose a cantle bag with bottle holder attached.

 * Cantle bag. Make sure the one you buy can attach to your saddle. Most are made for Western saddles. For an English saddle, a "Snug Pack" from Sportack's catalogue works well; it includes water bottles/holders. In your cantle bag, stow:
--Easyboot to keep the small problem of a lost shoe from becoming the big problem of a damaged foot.
--Hoof pick.
--Small roll of duct tape for emergency repairs or reinforcing Easy Boot.
--Reflective vest for safety if you're caught out after dark; rolls up.
--Roll of reflective tape for hock- and tail-wrapping after dark.
--Extra bandanna.
--Roll of bandaging tape, such as Vetrap, for emergency care.
--Extra-long leather bootlaces for repairing tack or tying objects to saddle.
--Inexpensive stethoscope for checking pulse and gut sounds.
--Spray bottle of water/alcohol or water/witch-hazel mix to cool your horse; seal in Ziploc bag to avoid leaks.
--First-aid kit including bandages, antibacterial cream, etc.

 For Your Horse

* Bridle. Recommended is a nylon or biothane halter/bridle, which is washable, durable and inexpensive (under $50) from trail-specialty catalogues, plus snap-on reins (not biothane, which doesn't provide enough grip, or leather, which isn't safe to tie with; rough-surfaced nylon or cotton rope and cotton webbing are okay) that convert quickly to a lead shank. To your bridle, attach an "attention-getting" bit, slightly stronger than you use in the ring--for instance, a slow-twist snaffle if your ring-riding bit is smooth.

* Saddle. Your current Western or English saddle might work fine--but if you trail ride often, consider a saddle made specifically for trail riding.

* Saddle pad. An all-purpose pad in natural or synthetic fleece or cotton fiber works well; make sure it extends out far enough from your saddle to prevent water bottles, cantle packs, or other attachments from chafing.

* Sponge. Lori likes The Australian Connection's big Dunk- ing Sponge; enclosed in a net bag, it attaches to one of the saddle's D-rings by means of a long string and a clip.

* Halter and lead rope. Unless you use a convertible halter/ bridle, you'll need a good-fitting halter and a lead rope to tie your horse safely.

* Spare stirrup leather. In case yours breaks on the trail.

* Full chaps. These protect your legs from thick, high brush or dense woods, and improve your grip, but can be clumsy for mounting from the ground.

* Seat pad. A seat pad cushions your rear on long rides; and protects your saddle from scratching. 

Create a Trail Survival Kit
reprinted from EquiSearch.com        by Christine Barakat

Whether you're riding familiar trails or exploring new territory, a trail survival kit can help you handle emergencies.

So you're not the rugged, survivalist type. You're not alone. It's a fact of 21st century life that fewer and fewer people are experienced in surviving in the great outdoors. Moseying on horseback through the local park on a sunny Saturday may be the closest some of us ever get to a wilderness adventure.

Yet even on a familiar trail a mishap can occur that could ruin your fun or, worse, get someone hurt. Serious accidents on trail rides are rare, but venturing from the security of home on horseback always poses a certain amount of risk. Changing weather, wildlife, the limitations of your own sense of direction--many potential hazards can sour what should be a pleasurable ride. Even on a short jaunt, an injury to yourself or your horse can isolate you, forcing you to rely on your own resources--reason enough to plan ahead and prepare for the unexpected.

That said, you don't need to be an Eagle Scout turned Forest Ranger to be ready for the challenges of the average trail ride. A few simple tools, and the skills to use what you've packed, can help you handle small emergencies on your own or summon and await help safely if necessary. The odds are that you'll never need most of the items in your survival kit, but you can never be too prepared.

You need not be an endurance rider or a backcountry explorer to benefit from a trail survival kit. And it doesn't have to be elaborate or expensive--in fact, you probably already have many of the necessary items and materials on hand. Nor does your survival pack have to be unwieldy--you can fit most key items into a medium-size fanny pack.

A well-stocked kit will reflect the type of riding you do. To help you decide what to pack, we've asked the experts for their suggestions, then sorted the items based on how challenging your riding excursion is likely to be. Start with the "routine" kit, then add items from the "exploratory" and "adventurous" lists, depending on where you plan to ride as well as your personal needs or preferences.

Once you've collected the items you need, find a way to carry your kit yourself, in a fanny pack, backpack or another conveyance. Don't attach the kit to your saddle: If you fall and get separated from your horse, the items in your saddlebag will do you no good. Finally, once you've got your kit stocked, resist the temptation to raid it for regular riding needs. The hoof pick you remove and forget to replace today may be the one that could salvage a trail ride tomorrow.

The Routine Ride
If you're sticking close to home, riding for only a few hours in an area you know well, a few basic tools are probably all you'll need:

    * Cellular phone. An inexpensive phone with a basic calling plan is a small investment for the security of being able to call for help immediately from nearly anywhere. (If you're heading into more remote areas, you might want to check with your service provider so you'll know if you'll be out of range of the transmission towers. Deep canyons and high ridges may interfere with your cellular signal.)

    * Swiss army knife or Leatherman tool. The more features the better on this essential item. Look for a model that has wire cutters, which can be lifesavers if your horse gets tangled in old fence lines.

    * Whistle. A loud, shrill whistle will get the attention of passersby and potential rescuers in an emergency. Carry this even if you have a cell phone; a whistle never has dead batteries.

    * Hoof pick. A small, folding hoof pick takes up little room in a kit and can save a ride that a stone lodged in a hoof would otherwise end.

    * Synthetic shoelace or plastic baling twine. With your knife and a little ingenuity, a shoelace or twine can repair bridles, stirrup leathers--and even saddles--long enough to make the ride home. (Cotton or other natural ties will do in a pinch, but generally, synthetic materials are stronger.)

    * Bandanna and safety pins. This small piece of cloth has multiple uses, from stopping bleeding to repairing tack. Pin a few safety pins to the bandanna for safekeeping.

The Exploratory Ride
If you're venturing farther afield, taking a long ride in terrain that's unfamiliar but still well-traveled by others and easily accessible by potential rescuers, a few more items may become helpful.

    * First-aid items. A small first-aid kit of antiseptic, a small bottle of saline, no-stick wound pads, gauze roll and self-adhesive wrap can help you treat minor equine and human injuries on the trail.

    * Desitin ointment. Even if your tack fits perfectly, long hours on the trail can rub painful sores onto your horse, especially under the girth. This thick, greasy ointment (available in a small tube) will sooth and protect girth galls, saddle sores and chafed areas until you get home and can tend to them. Desitin can treat minor rubs on riders, too.

    * Plastic bag. A large plastic garbage bag provides warmth and protection from sudden showers. But it's a good idea to desensitize your horse to the noise of rustling plastic beforehand.

    * Bug spray. Even the best fly repellents don't seem to last more than a few hours, and painful bites can drive a horse to the brink of being unridable. Pack a small spray bottle with fly spray so you can replenish his defenses mid-ride. For your own comfort, you may want to carry along a repellent for people, too.   #

    * Water. In any weather, debilitating dehydration can set in quickly. Carry as much water as is comfortable, based on how much you think you'll need for a day and a night. You won't be able to carry enough water for your horse in an emergency, so choose your trails wisely and don't venture into an arid area without experience.

    * Easyboot. If your horse loses a shoe, this "spare tire" can enable you to continue your ride or head home without risking stone bruises or other damage to an exposed hoof. Make sure the boot fits snugly on a shoeless hoof beforehand, and practice putting it on securely.

    * Sunscreen. Not only is sunburn painful and bad for your skin, but sun-poisoning can also make you very ill. Pack a small tube of sunscreen in case you get stuck outside on a sunny day. (The Desitin you've also packed can protect your nose and lips from sun.)

The Adventurous Ride
If you're trekking into rugged territory far from civilization, you'll want to take along some more advanced gear:

    * Waterproof map. Contrary to folklore, you can't rely on your horse to always find his way home. Having a map (and knowing how to read it) is essential in unknown territory. Park services or local county offices can give you a map of public lands. If you have permission to ride on private land, ask the owner for a map of the area. If you can't get one that is already laminated or printed on water-resistant material, pack your map in a plastic bag.

    * Compass. A map is useless if you don't know which way is north. Invest in, and learn how to read, a rugged and reliable compass.

    * Survey tape. You can use this colorful tape, which is also used to mark electric fence, to mark your trail as you go so you can find your way home. Just make sure you remember to collect it on your way back out. (Of course, if you're taking a circular trail and won't be retracing your steps, the survey tape will do you no good.)

    * Flashlight. It's always a good idea to carry a flashlight, especially if there is any chance you could get caught outside after dark. Take along a small but powerful flashlight or fluorescent camplight with an extra set of fresh batteries. You'll use it to light your own way through pitch dark or uncertain terrain, of course, but it will also serve as a beacon if someone is looking for you when visibility is low.

    * Waterproof matches. If you have to spend the night outdoors, hypothermia is one of your biggest risks. Even in the middle of summer, night-time temperatures can drop precipitously, enough to make you uncomfortable, and possibly enough to endanger your life. Pack matches, but heed fire safety rules. Build your fire in a small area you have stripped of sod. When you're ready to move on, extinguish the fire, wet down and disperse the ashes and replace the sod.

    * Thermal "space" blanket. A small reflective blanket will provide surprising warmth and will help you conserve critical body heat while riding or waiting in intense cold.

    * Food. If you're stranded for hours, your horse can graze until help arrives. You, however, will need a bit more sustenance. For lightweight energy, try granola bars, chocolate, snack mixes or the traditional staple on the trail, good old raisins and peanuts.
   Nice weather, good friends, a willing horse and an open trail are the recipe for a perfect afternoon. Coping with accidents may not always be on your mind when you're saddling up, but developing one habit--buckling on your fanny pack of basic survival tools before you head off--could someday ensure that an incident doesn't turn into an emergency, and an emergency doesn't become a disaster.

 This article originally appeared in the June 2000 issue of EQUUS magazine. Read "Take the Trail Rider's Pledge" in the May 2007 issue of EQUUS for commonsense rules to increase your safety and enjoyment on the trail.

Don't Leave Home Without It!
Store these items in the trailer so you always have them on board

• Spare Tire/Jack/Tire Iron
• Three emergency triangles or flares (Triangles are preferred)
• Chocks
• Flashlight
• Electrical tape
• Duct Tape
• Equine First Aid Kit with splint (know how to use it)
• Knife for cutting ropes, etc., in emergency
• Water
• Buckets/sponge
• Water hose
• Spare halter and lead rope for each horse
• Spare bulbs for exterior and interior lights
• Spare fuses if applicable
• Fire extinguisher with up to date charge
• WD-40 or other lubricant
• Broom, shovel, fork, and manure disposal bags
• Insect spray (bee and wasp)

 For the tow vehicle:
• Registration for the vehicle and trailer
• Proof of insurance
• Jumper cables
• Spare tire/jack/tire iron
• Tool kit including wiring materials
• Spare belts and hoses for the tow vehicle
• Tow chain
• Cellular phone and/or CB radio (CB may be more effective in rural areas without cell phone service)
• Replacement fuses
• Work gloves
• Portable air compressor
• Extra cash/credit card
• Road Atlas    •        
• Hawkins Guide: Equine Emergencies on the Road
• USRider Membership Kit
**Check your inventory frequently and replace used or removed items before each trip**

For crossing state lines or attending competitions:
• Certificate of Veterinary Inspection (Health Certificate) dated within 30 days
• Proof of Negative EIA (Coggins) usually dated within 1 year. Some states require within 6 months.
• Certificate of Brand Inspection if applicable

If you are in an accident and have been injured yourself:
   EMS personnel and police will most likely not be capable of taking care of your horses. Prepare for this situation by keeping some sort of emergency directions in a very visible place. Write the name of someone you know who can be called to help or to advise what to do with the horses if you are incapacitated - a knowledgeable friend, your veterinarian, or someone else who is familiar with your horses and all current telephone numbers. The USRider Membership Kit contains a specially created emergency information placard (trailer interior) and an accompanying emergency notification sticker (trailer exterior).

Emergencies on the Road
from thehorse.com    by Toby Raymond, May 01 2007, Article # 9657

Traveling with horses is no longer the big deal it once was, but the risks attached to hauling are as great as ever; as we all know, accidents happen, even to the most responsible of us. And while it's essential to take precautions to protect precious life and limb, you should also know what to do to in the event of an emergency.

Trailer Accidents, Taking Stock
In an effort to help improve safe horse travel, USRider, a nationwide member-based roadside assistance organization for horse owners, teamed up with nationally known large animal rescue experts Tomas Gimenez, DVM, professor of animal and veterinary sciences at Clemson University, and his wife, Rebecca Gimenez, PhD, animal physiologist and instructor in technical large animal emergency rescue, to conduct a research study pertaining to horse trailer accidents.

"Equestrians from around the country were urged to help with the research," noted Mark Cole, managing member for USRider. "We posted a survey on our Web site, www.usrider.org, in which we asked all horse owners, trainers, emergency responders, veterinarians, and others who had been involved in horse trailer incidents to participate by logging on and answering a series of questions. Since the program began in December 2003, more than 200 accidents have been evaluated, with more accounts coming in on a regular basis," he concluded. (To participate, visit www.us rider.org/survey.html.)

The survey findings produced a pattern of results that have formed the basis for the safety recommendations listed below:

 * With operator-error factors such as driving too fast causing the majority of trailer accidents, it is imperative for drivers to be alert and vigilant, or in other words, drive as if you have a cup of water on the floorboard of your vehicle. Stay slightly under the speed limit--this will give you the time you need to make allowances for adverse or changing driving conditions. Also, double the following distance recommended for passenger cars; be sure to maintain that distance even when cars cut in front of you.

    * Transportation experts agree that talking on a cell phone while driving proves to be just as dangerous as drinking and driving. While you should never attempt to pull a trailer if you're intoxicated, you shouldn't be distracted by talking on a cell phone while pulling one, either.

    * If your vehicle becomes disabled, continue driving--when possible--until you can pull over to a safe area. Do this even if you have a flat tire and it means destroying the wheel; wheels can be replaced. Stopping on the shoulder of the road is extremely dangerous, particularly on an interstate highway. That can put you, your horse, and emergency responders at great risk. Pull over on the grass as much as possible, away from the white line. If you have to change your own tire, have it retorqued by a qualified professional as soon as possible!

    * Do not unload horses beside the road when on a highway. Go to the nearest exit that has an off-road area and unload only if absolutely necessary. But, if you are in a situation where you absolutely must unload horses on a highway, request law enforcement assistance to stop traffic.

    * Drive with the headlights on at all times to increase visibility, and put reflective strips on the back of your trailer. In the event you lose trailer lighting or experience an electrical failure, the strips will help other drivers see you.

    * Replace your tires every three to five years regardless of their mileage, and make sure they're rated to support more than the gross weight of the trailer and its contents. Check the air pressure in all tires (tow vehicle, trailer, and spare tires) at least every 30 days. Purchase a high-quality air pressure gauge and learn how to use it. USRider endorses the use of an electronic air pressure device.

    * If you pull your trailer with a "dually" truck, don't forget to check the inside tires. Since these tires are hidden behind the outside tires, they are easy to neglect. Checking the air pressure of the inside tires is an absolute must. Even if an inside tire is completely flat, it will be supported by the outside tire, making it appear properly inflated.

    * Perform regular maintenance on your tow vehicle and trailer. Don't forget to have your trailer wiring inspected for uninsulated, loose, and exposed wires. While you're at it, check that connections are working properly; this applies to old and new trailers. Another point: have your trailer axles serviced annually or every 6,000 miles, whichever comes first.

    * Make use of the ICE program. ICE stands for "in case of emergency." This very simple program has been designed to aid emergency responders in identifying victims and determining who needs to be notified. For those who regularly travel with horses, it's important to make it easy for first responders to know whom to contact for information on handling your horses. To do this, program an entry into your cell phone's contact list called "ICE--Horse" with the contact information of someone with the authority to make decisions about the care of your horses if you are incapacitated.

    * In conjunction with the ICE program, initiate a power-of-attorney document with a trusted friend or relative. In the event that you are incapacitated, this will provide for emergency medical treatment for your horses. In addition, be sure to have the corresponding notice to emergency responders document. Keep copies of both documents in your vehicle's glove box. Both forms are available for download free from the USRider Web site.

    * Improper hitching is a common cause of trailer accidents. Be sure the hitch on the towing vehicle is the correct type, size, and rating to match the coupler. Also be sure the hitch is correctly installed on the towing vehicle. Fasten the safety chains and breakaway switch actuating chain securely. Safety chains must be properly rated and in good working condition.

    * An unbalanced load can cause a trailer to overturn. When loading a horse trailer, always load the heaviest cargo on the left (driver's side). If you are loading only one horse, load it on the left side of the trailer. Make sure trailer doors and hatches are secured after loading the horse(s).

    * To enhance the safety of the animals being hauled, and to minimize injuries, always use shipping boots and a head bumper on your horse(s).

    * Carry a current veterinarian-approved first aid kit. Recommendations for approved first-aid kits are listed in the Equine Travel Safety Area on the USRider Web site.

"Through unique studies like this and other initiatives, we are on a mission to increase the equine community's 'trailering IQ,'" emphasizes Cole. "You are transporting precious cargo; you can never be overprepared or too safe."
    For more information about the USRider Equestrian Motor Plan, visit www.usrider.org online or call 800/844-1409.

 Encountering an Emergency
   "Most horse problems fall into two basic categories: traumatic and digestive, of which dehydration/heat exhaustion, colic, and major cuts with blood loss are a part," states Neva Kittrell Scheve, co-author with James Hamilton, DVM, of Equine Emergencies on the Road. "If the injury appears to be life-threatening, and you don't have numbers of veterinarians in the areas in which you're traveling, call 911 and ask to be connected to a local equine veterinarian. If at all possible, refrain from unloading until the doctor arrives, especially if the horse is frightened or becomes aggressive," she concludes. (USRider provides its members with on-the-road emergency vet referrals through its nationwide DVM directory.)
   But in order to know whether a situation is life-threatening, you first need to learn how to monitor your horse's vital signs. In fact, you should take down all your horses' baseline measurements ahead of time, regardless of the length of the trip you're planning. Here are the normal ranges for an adult horse:
* Pulse: 30-42 beats per minute;
* Respiratory rate: 12-20 breaths per minute;
* Rectal temperature: 99.5-101.5° F (a veterinarian should be contacted for a reading over 102.5° F);
* Capillary refill time: two seconds (the time it takes for the gum tissue to return to normal after having been pressed with a finger);

Other signs to check are:
* Skin pliability for evidence of dehydration. Failure of skin (usually tested on the neck) to return to normal after having been pinched indicates dehydration.
* Color of the mucous membranes of the gums, nostrils, inner eye tissue, and inner lips of the vulva should be pink. Any other color, from bright red to pale pink, and from white to bluish or purple, could indicate a serious problem.
* Color, consistency, and volume of manure should be normal.
* Signs of distress, anxiety, or discomfort, and absence of gut sounds are indications of problems.
* Lethargy, depression, and not eating or drinking are also indicators of problems.
* Evidence of lameness could include head bobbing, difficulty moving, odd stance, pain, or unwillingness to rise.

Precautions
   "Many problems can be prevented by taking the appropriate precautions," counsels Scheve, "such as keeping your horse calm and comfortable, and providing him with a continuous supply of water. A horse that is under stress often times won't drink, leading him to become dehydrated and susceptible to colic, heat exhaustion, and shipping fever."

Dehydration/Heat Exhaustion
   Signs that your horse might be suffering from dehydration or heat exhaustion include increased body temperature and excessive perspiration, followed by increased respiratory rate and, in its most severe stages, weakness and lack of coordination.
   If you notice these signs, take your horse's temperature, heart (pulse), and respiratory rates, do the skin-pinch test, and check capillary refill time. Contact a veterinarian immediately. Intravenous fluids and electrolytes will need to be administered. In the meantime, douse your horse with cold water or alcohol and water.
   "Horse owners who carry tranquilizers may be tempted to use acepromazine; do not!" underscores Scheve. "This drug, along with most other tranquilizers/sedatives, lowers blood pressure, which could prove devastating to a heat-stressed horse."
   To help prevent this problem, you can give electrolytes, drive at night during hot weather, and stop regularly to allow your horse to drink, especially if he won't drink while traveling. Chances are, he will drink if you take him off the trailer to relax. It is vital for your horse to drink water on a long trip, even in cold weather.
   "If your horse is going to be faced with the further stress of competition, make sure that he is well-hydrated before competing, and again before the return trip home," Scheve advises.

Colic
   You need to recognize the early signs of colic, which include pawing, increased respiratory rate, lip flipping, and looking at his sides. Noticing these early will be beneficial in getting help before the problem becomes too severe. Schedule stops along the way to monitor your horse's behavior.
   A veterinarian should always be called if colic is suspected.
   If your horse is also overheated, offer him a drink, a bath with cold water or a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water, and walk him to lower his stress level. These measures could possibly help his gut motility return to normal.
   "Again, you should have discussed the medications you need to have on hand, and under what circumstances they might be used, with your veterinarian before your trip," Scheve states.

Major Cut With Blood Loss
   Apply steady pressure with a clean bandage or towel for at least five minutes. Or, you can take a stack of 4 by 4-inch gauze squares and put them directly over the wound, hold them in place by wrapping with your roll gauze, and firmly apply a quilt and outer wrap (standing bandage) over the top. If the wound location prevents the use of roll gauze and outer bandage, then use a tapelike bandage (e.g., ELASTIKON). If blood is spurting from the wound before pressure is applied, or if after several minutes the blood is soaking through the pressure bandage, call your veterinarian.
   Once the bleeding has subsided, the wound needs to be cleaned; wash it with a continuous flow of water to flush out any dirt and debris and use a clean, wet cloth for facial wounds. If the skin edges are separated, the wound might require sutures. Do not remove the bandage to clean if the bleeding is severe enough for you to have called a vet; just wait for his or her arrival.
   Do not apply antiseptics, detergents, creams, or powders, as they interfere with healing. A mild antibiotic ointment can be applied to prevent desiccation (drying out).

Take-Home Message
"It cannot be emphasized enough that in an emergency situation, you may have to depend on yourself to make instantaneous critical decisions," states Scheve. "If you are not prepared, you may not make the right decision quickly enough."

EMERGENCY KIT
* Roll cotton—two to four rolls.
* Roll gauze—four to six rolls of 4- or 6-inch width
* Gauze squares—one sleeve
* Clean standing bandages—four that are quilt or fleece without outer wraps
* Adhesive tape
* A 24-inch section of 6-inch PVC pipe, split in half lengthwise for splinting:
   check that diameter of pipe fits your horse.
* Cohesive flexible bandage—two rolls (e.g., Vetrap or CoFlex)
* Sticky roll bandage—one roll (e.g., ELASTIKON)
* Thermometer
* Stethoscope
* Mosquito forceps
* Scissors
* Twitch
* Antiseptic soap (e.g., Betadine)
* Hydrogen peroxide
* Antibacterial ointment (e.g, nitrofurazone dressing or triple-antibiotic)
* Antibacterial spray powder (e.g., Furox spray)
* Aerosol spray bandage (AluSpray, which serves as a protective barrier against bacteria)
* Ophthalmic ointment
* Saline eye wash
* Butazolidin paste
* Banamine granules or paste
* Electrolyte paste
* Duct tape
* Bucket
* Water (10 gallons or more)

Rules of the Road Governing Horses in NYS

Chapter 775 Title VII  Rules of the Road

1146-a. Approaching horses.
     1. Notwithstanding the provisions of any other law to the contrary, every driver of a vehicle shall exercize due care to avoid colliding with any horse being ridden or led along a public highway.
     2. Every driver of a vehicle shall approach a horse being ridden or led along a public highway at a reasonable and prudent speed so as to avoid frightening such horse and shall pass the horse at a reasonable distance.
     3. No driver of a vehicle shall sound the horn when approaching or passing a horse on a public highway.

1260. Effect of regulations.
     (a) The parent of any child and the guardian of any ward shall not authorize or knowingly permit such child or ward to violate any of the provisions of this article.
     (b) These regulations applicable to horses shall apply whenever a horse is ridden or led upon any highway and upon private roads open to public motor vehicles traffic.

1261. Traffic laws apply to persons riding or leading horses.
     Every person riding or leading a horse upon a roadway shall be granted all rights and shall be subject to all the duties applicable to the driver of a vehicle by this title, except as to special regulations in this article and except as to those provisions of this title which by their nature can have no application.

1262. Riding on roadways, shoulders and horse paths.
     (a) Upon all roadways, horses shall be ridden or led either near the right hand curb or edge of the roadway or upon a usable right-hand shoulder, lane or path in such a manner as to prevent undue interference with the flow of traffic.
     (b) Persons riding or leading horses upon a roadway shall do so in single file.
     (c) Any person riding or leading horses who is entering the roadway from a private road, driveway, alley or over a curb shall bring the horse to a full stop before entering the roadway.

1263. Carrying articles.
     No person riding or leading a horse shall carry any package, bundle, or article which prevents such person from keeping at least one hand on the reins.